How to put a shank on a flat button
Posted on 30. Nov, 2009 by Gail Yellen in Blog
Three years ago, I purchased a vintage collection of buttons at a local historical society fund-raising auction. It contained hundreds ranging from ordinary to extraordinary. And added to the rest of my stash, provides a great source for finding the perfect one as a cool focal point on a jacket. Quite a few of my favorites are flat and if the jacket fabric is heavy, a shank button usually works better. The shank lifts the button off the fabric and provides more clearance under the buttonhole and keeps the fabric around the buttonhole from puckering when the jacket is closed. I’ll show you 3 different ways to put a shank on a flat button. Waxing your thread helps prevent the thread from tangling, but it’s not absolutely necessary.
1. Make the shank from thread.
This is a traditional method that you might already know how to do. Using a hand needle and thread, take a stitch over 2 toothpicks to hold them in place on the right side of the fabric. 
Position the button holes directly over the toothpicks and the attach the button by continuing to sew over them.
When the button is secure, remove the toothpicks. Pull the needle and thread to the underside of the button (between the button and fabric) and wrap the thread around the stitches 8-10 times to create a shank.
Secure the thread by pulling it to the wrong side and knotting it. Clip the thread.
2. Make the shank from a small button.
Another way to make a shank under a flat button is to position a smaller one under it.
Just line up the holes and sew through both buttons simultaneously. If your button requires a longer shank, stack 2 small buttons underneath.
Done!
3. Make a bead shank.
A 5-6 mm bead makes a terrific shank. A word of caution: be sure that the bead isn’t made from paper. It will either disintegrate or become a gooey mess when the jacket is laundered or dry cleaned. Sew the bead to the under side of the button.
Position the button on your fabric and sew in place.
I’ve used all 3 options and like them. You can decide which method works best on your project.
Stay tuned for more informative how-to’s and tips!
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